And the 27mm is going on where?

The sprocket nut is 27mm.

You will need the deep 27mm socket... Autozone and such carry it.

ivanov, correct me if i'm wrong, but you seemed to ramble on in that last post there am i missing anything? saturday night special... wobbly pops, wobbly pops, french fries, they're good... jesus, somebody help me :P

You haven't missed anything! Good to be here on Sat night

Here's the 16T and 17T oem sprockets, washers and nuts... assist Shane

Reeves, is that any better... or should I slow down on the Corona?

don't slow down bro! hahaha

wife's gettin' randy in the lap right now! hehehe...

The 16T will have the chain clattering and jumping a bit more at first.
None of it will be present even during the very first ride after the install
with the proper chain adjustment and the wheel not dangling in the air.

Thanks Mass, you just saved me allot of time dicking around. I was thinking on replacing his chain. I was also unsure if my ceramic wheel bearings were playing a role in the No chain slap. All is good, Cheers.

All chains will do that when they are unloaded (rear off the ground) It just doesn't have any rolling resistance. If the slack is adjusted properly you want have that once it's under a load.

i noticed the kinks in mine when rolling it on the stand after the change. i also noticed it the first minute after riding, but it went away shortly. how does 1 tooth difference in the front change gas mileage? anybody figure their mileage before and after?

romans, did you notice a big improvement with the ceramic wheel bearings? $100 a bearing and those little f^(kers better be awesome! haha

* Last updated by: reevesmreeves on 6/15/2009 @ 8:35 PM *

Mileage? On a ZX-14? Dude... ;)

truck avg. 23 mpg, car 25 mpg, zx14 29 mpg, and 636 gets 37 mpg. guess which one i ride to work the most?

i live in mississippi. i have to be ultra-conservative with my money. that's why i only have two bikes

This is my trustworthy and very sturdy torque wrench/ brake bar.
It handles any nut on the bike with ease... up to 250 ft/lb!
Also my 27mm deep socket for the front sprocket and 36mm socket
that I use for my rear McIntosh axle nut, it's larger than the 32mm stock axle nut.
The nut on the front sprocket will come loose without a fight

i've got a 17/45. I should put her back to stock wheelbase and ride height and run 16/45

Anybody want to pull a life insurance policy???

i've got a 17/45. I should put her back to stock wheelbase and ride height and run 16/45

Anybody want to pull a life insurance policy???

You could go 16/46 with your current wheelbase and chain lenght...
but that would just be a waste for any sort of street riding.
Cruising on the highway at 8K rpm will get to you so very soon.

well besides the fact i have it exactly where i want it for the track. about 10,200 through the traps in 5th on motor.. Should put me right close to the same rpms in 6th on nitrous

I have a 16t on order.
I was told by some yob that you have to watch the clutch when you swap out the sprocket.
Is it another lie I've been told?
Is it right or left hand thread?

Nevermind, I just read it in another thread.......

* Last updated by: Toecutter on 6/21/2009 @ 2:12 AM *

Follow the SM when removing it and make sure you
don't touch the clutch lever or you'll loose pressure
and will have to replace the fluid and bleed it to obtain
the good lever feel again. I replaced my oem line with
Spiegler last time I was in there, so didn't matter whole lot.

Follow the SM when removing it and make sure you
don't touch the clutch lever or you'll loose pressure
and will have to replace the fluid and bleed it to obtain
the good lever feel again.

Ahhh, excellent, thanks mass.

Hey Toecutter!-How ya doin?Glad to hear you're still around here-even though ole Benasaki's gone gone gone.Anyway-"follow the SM" is good advice-"don't touch the clutch lever" is ambiguous however(the manual says to "put a band"on the lever(against the grip).Pull in the clutch lever BEFORE you remove the slave,and tape(or rubber band it) against the grip there.And DON'T REMOVE THE CLUTCH BANJO BOLT AT ALL-leave all that connected!(to the removed slave cylinder)And don't forget to re-install the THREE BOLT PATTERNED Plastic Black washer on the slave.Pump yer clutch lever several times after everything's back installed.It should work out PERFECTO!!Take care Toe-talk soon!(I think they're going with their instructions to "remove the clutch line from the slave cylinder"-that part-well,you don't need to remove ANY clutch line related parts!!!So you may not need to "band" the clutch lever(I did,just to be safe).Also-the nut on there-it goes COUNTERCLOCKWISE to remove.And you can put the trans in first and roll yer bike "against the gear"(so it won't move on ya),that SHOULD hold the shaft enough to loosen the nut-BUT-the bike MAY move forward-so watch yer kickstand there-don't let yer bike fall forward(Someone should actually step on the rear brake for you when loosening that nut-that's the safest way).

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/22/2009 @ 9:51 AM *

Cool info guys,sprocket should be here in a week.
I have a air compressor downstairs, have to fire it up make sure it's working, then pick up a socket.
Can't wait to ride the beast after the changeover. Oh yes.

You will enjoy yer new-found kick!Mine is 16/42-speedohealed at -12.9%.Have fun TOE!(you don't need to remove that chain guide either,as the manual says.Just remove the upper and lower bolts on it,and you can bend it out of the way there.(or not-however ya feel-it's only one more bolt anyway to completely remove it out of the way)And don't forget to bend that washer flat when you remove the nut.And back up when you reinstall.(I know,I'm long winded!)

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/22/2009 @ 10:16 AM *

No, no, the more info the better.
I'll have 16/43, And from what I understand speedohealed at 15.5%.

Gotta say-I think yer Avatar is totally,well,cool!!!-15.5% sounds right(for the V4).Remember-those numbers on the rear sprocket face out-and the teeth "lip"will also face out.Make sure ya don't get those rear spacers mixed up when ya reinstall the rear wheel-one is a different depth.(think the right one is shallower).And you WILL be able to see the bearings in the hub-that's normal-they'll be covered back up when you install your spacers.

Well... f*ck the Sm then

You only have to remove the 1 really long and two shorter bolts that bring the
clutch in down there... and don't touch the lever. Anything else is irrelevant
and you only need to follow it if replacing the clutch line or fluid.

BTW if anyone attempts this sprocket change without a rear stand at least...
well buy a stand, they sell them and are used for a good reason.

'll have 16/43, And from what I understand speedohealed at 15.5%.

I have been setting the v-4 to -15.2 or 15.3. for 16F/43R . The math works out to -15.25 . What size tire Toe ?

Ya-like Mass said-you NEED a rear stand to replace the rear sprocket.That's for sure!!!