I got in there with a dremel w/cutoff wheel.
Made a 2mm wide swath as far along the shaft as I could without touching anything else.
Put the impact gun on it, get this, it only had 2 threads left on the shaft, and it still took the gun about 10 seconds to break it free.
Freak job is right.

Now I can't wait to bolt evrything up, wanna see just how looney this gearing is.
cause I'm ALL about looney......buhahahahahahahahahahahah...grin......

You know the nut is an elliptical-it's not round.Made that way so it WON'T back off that thread.You must have gotten an "overdone"elliptical!(they're cast bolts,and then machined).That's why they say to replace the nut in the manual.Supposed to be tight.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/4/2009 @ 8:20 PM *

Right. Got everything buttoned up. chain adj, speedohealer adj, pump the clutch, done, right?
Fuck no.

Clutch won't engage all the way.
Bleed the bitch, still no.

What the fuck now.

WHAT THE FUCK NOW.

WHAT.
THE.
FUCK.
NOW.

Aw geez-sounds like some of MY adventures!My guess-air in the clutch line,probably the slave.Question-(it's gonna sound stupid)What did you do with the slave cylinder there after you removed it.And WHAT did you do,if anything,with the lever BEFORE you removed the outer clutch assembly there?

Okay Toe(BTW-it's good to hear from ya!)Do you have a manual?Open to page 6-8.READ THE SECOND PARAGRAPH there.I got "mocked" about this from someone who"knew it all".Did you do this procedure?And did you remove ANY clutch lines(or loosen?).

I tied down the lever to the bar, removed slave and just put it aside (still attached to all lines. Did not remove any banjo, or lines.) The piston was up inside.

Did all the other stuff, and sfter I was done, LAST thing I did was release lever.

Yes, I have the service manual.

On page 6-8,
I followed the "Perform the following if the clutch slave cylinder is to be removed but not disassembled."

I then later when it wasn't working, 0n page 6-9 it says to remove the band from lever before tightening the bolts then cinch 'em down. That didn't work.

I figure Sat morning I'll redo the second para on 6-8, redo the bleed, and see what (if anything) happens to me then.

UnBooo-levable!!! This "little" project has morphed into some kind of evil mojo thing.
This weekend is our Street-Wheelers hot-rod cruise, and show and shine.
Me? I'm in a shed sharpening sticks to poke in me eyes.

I'll check in the morn before I go increase my blood-pressure if you've responded.
Thanks BTW for the tips and such.

My neighbor said I should get a Honda....I'm gonna miss him....

My neighbor said I should get a Honda....I'm gonna miss him....

Bad neighbor. Poke him with those sharp sticks. Needless to say, when this little Mod is over you will enjoy the results more then most

Ya-get some air-come back to it after a while.I'd bet virtually 100% you got some air in that line at the slave.If any was possibly trapped in there from "before"-turning the slave and moving it out of the way there could cause the air to migrate to a"non-wanted" place.Any drops of of fluid around the area you were working in there,even a little?If ya had the lever taped back,it should have been okay-BUT-things happen.Keep workin the clutch,bleeding,it'll come out.You do have partial clutch,yes?Another stupid question Toe-Is it engaging and disengaging?The clutch lever is NOT gonna feel like the brake lever.But it should pop back out smartly.Hang in there,you'll get er!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/11/2009 @ 2:19 PM *

Thanks Blue,
I had the slave off, lube the piston, have good motion, bleed twice,(top and bottom) and.....nothin'.

When you have the lever full to bar there is the slightest perception of engagement, but no on/off like it should be.

I'm at a total loss as to what next.

Hub, do you have any idea of what is happening?
Do I just bleed the bitch till I use all the fluid in the province?

Hey Toe-Are ya gittin ANY air bubbles?Even tiny ones?She's still got air in there somewhere.Try this-start er up.Let er run till she's up there pretty good temp wise(10 minutes,maybe 15)(nice and warm).Tap the clutch lines starting at the bottom there.Give em some nice sharp raps.Go to the upper line comin down from the lever.Tap that several times.Then start at the lever M/C.Bleed.Then to the slave.Bleed.Check good for ANY bubbles.Sounds like yer gonna have to do this bleed deal SEVERAL times until ya git it all out.If yer getting ANY feel at the lever-it's BEGINNING to get clear of the air.But it's gonna take more than a couple of times to get it all out.There's still some in there somewhere.I was gettin tiny-I mean TINY streams from the M/C.Then a couple of pretty good bubbles.Then clear again.And at the slave-ya-would get the same thing.I had to go back and forth like 6 or 7 times.Thought it would NEVER come back.It did.Yours will too-Just keep workin it.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/11/2009 @ 11:34 PM *

Thanks Blue, you have to be right.
There is nothing else it could be.
I'll go back at it tommorow morning ,I work tommorow night, and carry on this week till it kills me.

You'll git er!That clutch is a pesky one to bleed-I'll say that!!Glad you're doin okay there!!!(just ONE MORE DUMB QUESTION[the last,I PROMISE])-you've got the reservoir cap off while yer doin this,yes?(I thought so- )...one little thing I did-when she was nice and warmed up-before I bled the lines,I leaned the bike over as far as I could to the right(opposite the kickstand)(I wouldn't do this from the left side if ya know what I mean!!LOL).Any air trapped down below will flow uphill towards the slave nipple.If you can, lean er up against something to the right there,that would be good.Just make sure she won't rock forward or back and fall.If ya can't do that,I'd use a rear stand at least(if you've got one).

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/12/2009 @ 1:18 AM *

hahahahah, yeah, cap off, I'll use my stands, thanks Blue....

OR................You could get ya a "mityvac".I'd say model 8020,but the "silverline" like Coolwhip's got would be excellent as well.I haven't got one yet,I'm gonna pretty soon.I priced the 8020 model-$29.00.Think the silverline was $69.00.Website is "tooldesk"-yep,it's tooldesk alright.Located in Maine.Then ya won't have to go through all the "bike acrobats"I suggested.Just tryin to help Bro!.Well-git er done Toe

Okay Toe(BTW-it's good to hear from ya!)Do you have a manual?Open to page 6-8.READ THE SECOND PARAGRAPH there.I got "mocked" about this from someone who"knew it all".Did you do this procedure?And did you remove ANY clutch lines(or loosen?).

I've changed the front sprocket on my 14 twice- zero issues.
Replaced my clutch line with Spiegler stainless- zero issues.
Went -1 on my old zx10, my gf's old gixer 1000 and just now
I did -1 on the front on her new R1... zero clutch slippage or
air in the line... or anything other than 100% up and running order.

As I posted here before- remove the 3 clutch bolts, removing the sensor prior to that,
then remove the sprocket cover. DO NOT TOUCH THE CLUTCH LEVER!
Everything else I've read on the forums had led to some sort of issues.

Don't know it all but I certainly know enough to take me 30 min to raplace a sprocket!

What the fuck now.

WHAT THE FUCK NOW.

WHAT.
THE.
FUCK.
NOW.

DO NOT TOUCH THE CLUTCH LEVER!

hindsight is always 20/20. that's what i tell myself often anyway.

Toe, replace the clutch line fluid and just bleed it well.
It is a good opportunity to replace it with stainless too.

shit i've changed the front sprocket about 10 times hahahahaha.

keep going back and forth.. 17/41, 16,41 17/40, 16/40, 17/45... 16/45 is next.. OOPS! lol

Well-I'm just curious-WHY DOES KAWI SAY TO BAND THE LEVER?(when removing the slave). (just for the record-I've changed my sprocket several times as well-and "banded the lever(as Kawi says)and DIDN'T have any clutch issues-NO BLEEDING OR SOFT LEVER.But I DID have a KAWASAKI "mechanic"change one for me-DIDN'T BAND the lever,and spent an hour trying to get the lever back the way it was.(he had to bleed the line)_SO............... ??When I walked back into the shop to see if it was going okay,there WAS a small spot where the fluid had somehow escaped the slave.And the manual does say it will lose fluid-??????????????Pg 6-8,"the piston will be pushed out by spring force AND the clutch fluid WILL DRAIN OUT".

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/12/2009 @ 11:40 PM *

Hey what`s going on. Looking for a good set-up so i can come out strong and not lose any off the top! any suggestions?
I need the top speed because I`m currently stationed in Germany! Love the Autobahn it`s smooth and you can really fly AND I LOVE EATING UP THOSE DAMN DUCATI`S (UMMMMMMMMMMMM)............

* Last updated by: NINJARYDER on 7/20/2009 @ 2:21 PM *

Well for me, the 16 tooth sprocket in the front and the 42 out back gave me the added kick I want.......However....I've only been able to hit 180(Before you say it-it's gps'd and speedohealed)and that's about all the farther I think she's gonna go.Will try a top end run again in a bit-but I doubt she's gonna go much faster.Stock gearing,speedohealed,I was hittin 186 at least-and she felt like she had more.Had the 16/43 on there as well-just wound out through the gears too quickly for me-though I REALLY liked the way she felt.Plus with the 16/43 my fuel mileage dropped(about 6-8 less mpg)which I didn't want.With the 16/42-I'm getting "average"mileage of 41.(that's 70,80+ mph in 6th).(Power Commander III-no secondaries,stock exhaust,stock air filter-4 degrees advance).

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/20/2009 @ 2:29 PM *

WELL WITH MY FACTORY SET UP I HAVE HIT 195 MPH WITH A -10% CORRECTION ON THE SPEEDOHEALER. I KNOW I CAN GET TO 200 BUT RAN OUT OF ROAD(OK SAFE ROAD), A FEW TIMES. DAMN LAMBO PULLED OUT AND IMPEEDED MY PROGRESS. HE MUST HAVE THOUGHT IT WOULD BE A CHALLENGE! SILLY RABBIT TRICKS ARE FOR KIDS................ I`M RIGHT AT 179.6 HP ON THE REAR WHEEL AND IT SEEMS TO LAG! OK NOT LAG BUT A ZX12 GOT ME AND I HAD THE JUMP. BUT I GOT HIM AT AND OVER THE TOP BECAUSE OF GEARING...IT HAS TO BE. BECAUSE I RIDE HARD. AND I`M A BIG GUY TOO. THINKING ABOUT THAT BROCKS DUAL CT SYSTEM BUT IT`S QUITE HIGH IN PRICE

* Last updated by: NINJARYDER on 7/20/2009 @ 2:39 PM *

THE TOP BECAUSE OF GEARING...IT HAS TO BE. BECAUSE I RIDE HARD. AND I`M A BIG GUY TOO.

Ninjaryder, What is your current gearing ? I'm 6'2 240.

If you're wanting top end speed, i'd personally recommend an 18/41 gearing (+1 in the front, stock in the rear).

You should have enough power to pull this gearing.

Also, ditch the slipons for a full system. My preference is Brock's Smeg, but you can choose one of you're liking.

If you really want to get into it, a thin (.018) head gasket, adjustable cam gears, and a set of cams will put you at or over 200 hp. That will give you enough grunt to beat that pesky zx12 from the start, as well as pass those slow ass lambo's before they know what passed them.

i`m running stock set up with 17/41! the zx12 was running 45 in the rear not sure about the front.but he was taking off and that front end was doing the dance up and down!! looked pretty dangerous if you ask me. i`m 6`4 280 so i know i need more power. but that Brock`s CT dual full exhaust is pricey! to say the least. i like the dual look of the exhaust, not really feeling the 4 into 1.....i was thinking of going up one tooth in the rear and see how that works. hope it doesn`t mess with the top end to much.