KDS?

Looks cool...what does it do?

Found the pic on the web...Supposedly everything you can do with a Woolich tuner like set timing, fuel, sub throttles plus diagnose every system on a Kawasaki only, the downside is you can not do other manufacturers bikes like a Woolich, and it is one license per PC.

The cost would be expensive I'm sure, but no bin files to purchase. Not sure on the price or availability, but I think I saw just an adapter for $800. I'm guessing this kit is expensive and not readily available.

Since this is made for Kawasaki OEM Mitsubishi ECUs, this would probably be the only way to fix a bad "bin file" I'm guessing.....along with knowing how to use the software properly.

* Last updated by: bmacknyc14R on 12/11/2014 @ 9:47 AM *

Apparently these are only sold to dealer service departments, but it looks like they pop up on Ebay from time to time.

I looked online for this tool...found it.Looks like it's pretty intense...you'd have to have a keen eye to get things right with it...interesting though...lots of Kawasaki 'manuals' on how to use it.I didn't see any info on 'changing' fueling or resetting timing or anything...maybe didn't look long enough through the pages...but seems really good to have.It seemed like it was available...I mean..IF it has to go through a dealer...that would be alright...yes?You'd be installing it on your own computer...don't see a problem there?Good find..;)

If you read the manual further, you will see you can change secondary openings, timing, fueling, etc...it's there and definitely the beginning and end to fixing anything ECU related...except hardware failure

I was reading the manual from the link Romans posted

Just like anything else, to adjust anything with timing or fueling a dyno is needed....

* Last updated by: bmacknyc14R on 12/11/2014 @ 10:45 AM *

Correct, Grn. Kawi is not about to say, here fucup our tune and emissions and here is the tool to do it. It looks like a diagnostic tool where you clear the dash of codes, or the bike has an intermittent code popping on and off. The tool sees the saved code so the tech can address that area.

The 8 and 4 pin connectors are for ABS and FI sensor parameters. So if said sensor is out of spec, real time would show the numbers pumping out said range. You have the book open to the spec range and when hot say, the signal deteriorates and the number in real time shows out of spec. That is the kind of tool we are looking at. There is nothing to change map wise. All you are doing is looking at a flashed [saved] code. Then, you come along with the tool, flash that out of the system and if it pops back on in the saved file again... You did not repair/replace nor found the error correctly.

bmack said, If you read the manual further, you will see you can change secondary openings, timing, fueling, etc.

What page?

That's what it looked like to me also Hub....thanks.

Just like anything else, to adjust anything with timing or fueling a dyno is needed....

I want it. I was into this two years ago but the info I was getting was E bay units are out of date. Only work with older PCs, guys not able to update, and of course when call kawi they play stupid and won't help. 860 US is allot of scratch for a gamble to own outdated software. I don't suppose Ivan will help me if I go for it lol ???

Pretty simple going forward. Ivan has made the investment, Pay The Man. Last couple of times I rolled the dice came up snake eyes.

I read wrong, diagnostic tests in the program for TPS voltage and fuel diagnostic (pages 37-40-no dice), there must be another software that gets used with specific hardware that connects to the ECU similar to this...kind of like Woolich...

Ivan and Don Guhl have their own software to do this magic. I've heard of Don Guhl repairing ECUs and now Ivan, so whatever they have to fix these errors with the Woolich software is probably a step up I would think....magic!!

A connector with an editing program directly to the ECU....simple but not really once you get inside depending on the interface...

* Last updated by: bmacknyc14R on 12/11/2014 @ 1:40 PM *

OK, got mine back today and things fired right up but I have a question for anyone who wants to turn their key on without starting it up. With the key on but engine not running is your check engine light on or off? Mine is off, is that correct?

thanks

You guys do know that for many years you could and can buy flashing tools and race ECU from Kawasaki for the zx10 right ? Think about it for a second ...How hard would it be for a smart guys like Don or Ivan to move a few wires on the plug and use it on the zx14 ? With the factory kawi tools you could reprogram any part of the ECU ( including the fan temp ) That open anyone's eyes ?

It makes sense...

Seems like Don Guhl and Ivan got the one upper on Woolich? No reports of file issues with their flashes.....at all that I've read or heard

OK, got mine back today and things fired right up but I have a question for anyone who wants to turn their key on without starting it up. With the key on but engine not running is your check engine light on or off? Mine is off, is that correct?

I don't have my PC hooked up right now so I'm not sure my bike would be the best to check against. I'm quite sure the red light to the left should be ON when you key on and go out when the motor starts.

here's what mine does. Looks like the light on the left goes out after a couple seconds of key on.

0:28

Sorry, Ican't figure out why I am not able to embed videos anymore. Here's a link.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RX8qxlhGBAk&list=UUHRucR5-LS5u6ucaHacysyw

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/11/2014 @ 5:36 PM *

We were doing something similar to this with an older mitsu ECU 5 years ago in the DSM world. Not far fetched at all.

Toledo: The oil pressure light is all that should be lit with the key on.

I spoke with Ivan for 2 hours this afternoon.

Thanks looks like we're good to go

What about during the self test? All my lamps check themselves.

With the factory kawi tools you could reprogram any part of the ECU

I believe both 6r and 10r used the same [kit-ECU] CD software, same ECU to gain access to the adjustments. You also needed the sub-wire harnesses that had to cross wires out of the kit-ECU pins. The 'drivers' off the CD that made it work. Then it turned obsolete because the brick became smaller, smaller main connectors, etc. You couldn't use the OE brick and the kit-ECU to retrieve anything or everyone would be digging into the stock brick with the software.

Yup...mine all lit and went out within two seconds or so.

Key switched to "on" but not started. Lights on - abs, neutral and red oil pressure light.

Key turned on and bike started, lights on - abs, neutral and high beam(I ride with them on all the time)