You know we have bypass valves, 1bad

yes i do

now do you know by not blocking them off you get wrong AFR readings from your 02 sensor in your exhaust

and also do you know AFR is determined by engine temp

also do you know at low RPM that your exhaust back flows fresh air into the pipe from the tip of the exhaust .. crazy huh

---

Nope, it shuts all of the fuel off, watching the AFR gauge on my LCD it'll go from 14.7 to something like 650+ (all air, no exhaust

+1 on my side same thing and that's at 0 AFR,trims and fueling in 0% column

---

Okay, let me get this straight. I have a stock ECU, a flashed ECU. I install a pc. The pc takes the signal and does what? The frequency is opening the injector or is not opening the injector? So isn't the final frequency still opening an injector? The OE would call the cut, right? The pc is just waiting for a signal.

and also do you know AFR is determined by engine temp

Disagree. Not me, the shop manual. AFR is determined by method. Home he does not need anything but a lit engine, pull all the telemetry except the crank sensor, cam sensor has it running so pull that, right? Show me the eng temp sensor or show me magnetic sweep speed.

also do you know at low RPM that your exhaust back flows fresh air into the pipe from the tip of the exhaust .. crazy huh

Wait a minute. You're not talking about backy the wacky way in are we? When the bike sits in the garage all cold, not running, what is the pressure in the room? What is the pressure in the pipe? What is the room temp? What is the temp in the pipe? 14.7 pressure and room temp in the pipe?

You pack a cylinder of air and compress it, what did it return to? 14.7. So on the push out, who is pushing back in? 14.7. So back in the pressure goes 14.7? You got another number, buddy?

---

FI turns off gas... literally. Is that needle pegging at something? Or does the needle go to memory and stop at the last sniff? It keeps pegging the needle or keeps sending in data as a number? Isn't that fuel reading? So if something is turning off fuel.... how come you keep reading fuel data? Where is the ping of the ECU frequency? Wouldn't an injector code pop up you send the ping to ground instead? For every action, that ping in AC is still occurring as signal ping back and forth.

---

I agree with you, I would expect it to have given you a +12 or something along those lines if that cell was that lean. So I'm purely guessing here, but try adjusting the cells before that range (4,000RPM) and maybe after.

Well, I'm not ssure but maybe it was -4 on one run and then went to +4 to bring it back where it had been. IDK. It seemed like those two cells were the only ones that needed work and they kept coming back with trims unril the last. Final run, ALL ZERO!

Although you stated the 15% TP column is for throttle positions 15-19% I'm not personally 100% sure that something like 17-19% TP isn't actually averaging the fuel map of the 15% & 20% column of the same RPM range. I don't have any evidence to support that theory however.

OH GAWD!! don't get me wondering on that now! What I've been trying to do is watch cell tracer to gauge my throttle application. If cell tracer goes to my column, I hold it steady. I hold it until rpm starts leveling off and then open slowly to highest TP for that column. Cell tracer climbs until peak rpm for that TP is reached. That's the end of the run. Easier said than done. I figure if cell tracer stayed in the column I'm tuning all the way to peak rpm for that TP, the trims should be good.

Problem I am now having is doing a full run. There is not enough road unless I go to the longer stretches which are more likley to be patrolled by po and they will see me from a mile off. Also farmers with cows and I'm sure they would hate a bike screaming by 10 times. So I'm stuck with the roads through the woods with shorter straight stretches. I have to tune 3500 rpm to 6000 and then let off because I'm running out of road. Go back and tune 6000 and up. This is maxing at 19% throttle and I'm already over 100 mph. i was very leary today...felt I was pushing my luck. Saw no po just one deer that ran across the road while I was going slow.

The ECU fuel map runs lean in 0% throttle range above idle to cook off crap in the cat. As you suggested, set everything back to the base map for the 0% column and don't have the autotune try and tune that column, you'll only get garbage data.

DONE.

Nope, it shuts all of the fuel off, watching the AFR gauge on my LCD it'll go from 14.7 to something like 650+ (all air, no exhaust)

So the noise on decel is just the sound of the pistons pushing air out? No ignition?

now do you know by not blocking them off you get wrong AFR readings from your 02 sensor in your exhaust

No, didn't know that. I don't see why. Air is air. The O2 sensor doesn't care where it came from just how much there is.

and also do you know AFR is determined by engine temp

That's why I try to keep the motor at normal temp.

also do you know at low RPM that your exhaust back flows fresh air into the pipe from the tip of the exhaust .. crazy huh

No. didn't know that one either. Are you saying it's useless to tune for AFR?

...and Hub says otherwise on engine temp and exhaust sucking fresh air. I'm just going with what seems to be definite for now. I'll worry about things other than AFR some day.

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/4/2016 @ 2:02 PM *

---

So the noise on decel is just the sound of the pistons pushing air out? No ignition?

I would think that if you could remove all other sources of noise (wind, engine, tires, etc) the exhaust probably would be a bit quieter than if there were fuel, since the exhaust noise is really just the high pressure from the power stroke being released into the exhaust. With no fuel, the net result of the pressure on the exhaust stroke would be near 0 so it wouldn't be very loud.

and also do you know AFR is determined by engine temp

This is a bit too simplified, its like saying "AFR is determined by intake pressure", sure its part of the equation, but its not the only variable.

also do you know at low RPM that your exhaust back flows fresh air into the pipe from the tip of the exhaust

This is true and if you do some research you can find some information about this. For the life of me I can't remember what this phenomenon is called. Basically what happens is when your exhaust valve opens you have a high pressure wave of gas that exits the engine.

This wave travels down the pipe to the exhaust tip where it hits the atmosphere, since there is a big difference between the 2 pressure zones (high pressure in the exhaust and low pressure outside) the wave will actually bounce back carrying some of the outside air with it.

This is why trying to tune low RPM can be frustrating since the AFR can be skewed by this affect. Things that interfere with exhaust flow like catalytic converters, mufflers, turbos actually reduce the affect of this happening since they block or distort these waves.

2 side notes of interest, the wave front is also part of the concept of "tuning" the exhaust headers, which allows the exhaust gas of 1 pulse from a cylinder to scavenge exhaust gases from another cylinder.

the second note of interest is do some reading on exhaust reversion (related to the fresh air issue) which describes exhaust gases going into the intake during valve overlap.

now do you know by not blocking them off you get wrong AFR readings from your 02 sensor in your exhaust

Badzx14r, perhaps you and Rook might be talking about 2 different things, you would want to block off any fresh air systems that inject fresh air into the exhaust to help the catalytic converter work. I think Rook is talking about air bleeder valves (aka idle air screws) which are common on carburetors.

I think Rook is talking about air bleeder valves (aka idle air screws) which are common on carburetors.

if this is what he is talking . throttle bodies do have them they have like 1 full turn out I shut them on my turbo bikes . also throttle bodies should be snyc from time to time . but I tune for WOT from launch in drag racing.

what i'm talking bout is this

block off plates

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 8/4/2016 @ 4:14 PM *

---

Disagree. Not me, the shop manual. AFR is determined by method. Home he does not need anything but a lit engine, pull all the telemetry except the crank sensor, cam sensor has it running so pull that, right? Show me the eng temp sensor or show me magnetic sweep speed.

dataloggers disagree with you. and i'll believe the dataloggers

You pack a cylinder of air and compress it, what did it return to? 14.7. So on the push out, who is pushing back in? 14.7. So back in the pressure goes 14.7? You got another number, buddy?

13.0 to 13.8 is what pumping out my pipe at idle . 14.7 would melt me pistons

fat numbers run consistent times
didn't ivan teach you anything

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 8/4/2016 @ 3:55 PM *

---

what i'm talking bout is this
block off plates

Oh yeah. I did know that and did that one years ago.

Yes, I was speeking of bypass valves in the T-bodies. The needle valve screws. I synced my engine vacuum last fall. Excellent learning activity but huge PITA and very little if any difference in performance.

dataloggers disagree with you. and i'll believe the dataloggers

that's on my agenda. I'll weigh in when I get to that point.

As for 14 AFR, that is a general number that should burn all fuel introduced into the engine (according to Romans' video on p 2 of this thread, stoichiometric--14.6 AFR) but it probably applies more to cars than bikes.

---

How about this. I'm going with the book and how FI mimics a carb in every way almost. When a throttle is closed on a carb, does the carb stop feeding fuel out of 3 jet holes? I rest my case. Think what you like. And if that was the case, you'd have some big smile mileage with the miles per gallon, but it ain't happening is it? I'm like walking up to the next chess board, then the next move, and so on to the next table of what I more see as fallacy or how that data is read. Do both of those make sense or not? Either flat out yes or flat the fuck out no. She's not half pregnant. I rest my feel lope pee inn tube.

So the noise on decel is just the sound of the pistons pushing air out? No ignition?

Ignition was at the compression stroke. This noise on decel is like thunder in the pipe. Hot air meeting cold air = Bang. Back-in-pressure goes back in cooler, then meets hot air heading out the exhaust pipe, right? Straight, long, one bend out the heads of a h-d chopper. Backfire like a mother. So the flame front is pretty much done that long down the pipe. About 8 to 9 inches in, the pipe would have this blue color to it. The rest of the pipe was raw, so I would take ATF and wipe it on as it was getting hot and sort of cure the iron skillet. So as I'd see it show up occasionally for service or whatnot, I noticed that bluing and figure the pop is about that much in heat with the oxy adding more heat for that instant pop. I'm not a wave/pressure kind of thinker. Yeah I mess with it, but here is more where my thinking goes. MAG = Heat&ChemRe. Was there heat? Yes. Was there a chemical reaction? Yes. Was there Mag as in noise of a spike in E? Think what you like.

now do you know by not blocking them off you get wrong AFR readings from your 02 sensor in your exhaust

"No, didn't know that. I don't see why. Air is air." ~ Air is air but you mixed it with a chemical. Say a shot glass, 8oz glass, just something you can see thru. Now we pour in oil and water that don't mix. See the water at this level, the oil fills the rest of the glass. That's known as AFR, wink-wink, Oil to Water ratio. It's in the chamber. It's air, and it's fuel, and the intake valve just closed. What is the pressure in the chamber the second that valve closed? Atmospheric pressure or 14.7 = Zero Pressure more or less.

I'm going to shake up the glass, watch all the oil and water mix and keep breaking down the larger bubbles to smaller ones. That's more the mist in the chamber with the valve closed and just being suspended in the air. Of course you are about to compress it so the piston can fly down on the next stroke called the power stroke, so 14.7 AFR becomes packed in that piston dome and cylinder head. The flame front is burning the smaller ones sure, but the big ones flame out and stay a fluid. The expansion of the air shoots the piston back down, the rod comes around to bring the piston back up, the exhaust opens, the piston is coming back up from the other piston that just fired off, sends the momentum in a perpetual pulse of constant AFR, a constant suck of air and on the close of the valve is 14.7 in pressure, or as if you see both valves open with a dead engine and what is the room pressure? What is the pipe inside the non-running engine? And now is not the same atmospheric pressure in the chamber the same number all dead engine?

So the answer in my engine is 14.7 dead engine and fourteen the fuck seven running too, thefuck?! "Who's wit me?" In my best, holding the plastic bag of water and shaking the fish in it... 'show me the money.'

"The O2 sensor doesn't care where it came from just how much there is."
Correct. So say I pour in half water, half oil, what is our AFR now? Not too much fire-off is there? It's still 14.7, the 02 is going to trigger it back to this ideal chemical or neutralize as much oxygen back in the air, not spent fuel about to vaporize and cause poor gas mileage. You cannot create or destroy matter so it don't matter, but tuning does.

and also do you know AFR is determined by engine temp

True. Key on, the temp is known in binary and it now has some lookup table to set the duty cycling rich to start. The higher the temp numbers, the calc keeps shutting off more duty time, or back to base 14.7 AFR if the sensors are in play.

* Last updated by: Hub on 8/4/2016 @ 8:37 PM *

---

^^^What the hell is that logo anyway? Is that wheel balancing cones? Someone put them on the wrong way. LOL Hub has it!

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/4/2016 @ 10:43 PM *

---

I'm still getting +4 or +5 in the 4250 and 4500 column every time I do a 15% TP run. I have accepted repeatedly and I'm up in the 20s in those cells still getting +4 each run. Something is weird about those cells. I viewed AFR but of course rpm is flying when throttle is held at 15%. I do see a rich spot flash in the gauge but no way to tell exactly what rpm. A video cam would help. Also datalogging would be perfect solution. Have to get that LCD in the network. For now, I will just set the 4250 and 4500 column manually and watch the AFR gauge for a solid 13. From 3000rpm and up.

It's getting hard to do this all the way to peak rpm/TP. Hitting about 6000 now in 5th gear and I have had to grab the brake hard a couple times to make the corner. IDK if I'm going to be able to accomplish the whole map on the street. Just drove out to a beautiful freshly paved 3 mile stretch of straight open road with no homes but I always hear the State police patrol for drunks. I was stopped there once for doing 90 (top speed) in my '85 Plymouth Champ back in my college days. Sure looks good though. I did a 160 mph run there a few years ago. saw a cop drive by 5 minutes later. SO I'm stuck with these stretches out in the forest less than a mile with rises I can't see over and corners in between. NOT doing 160 on those! ...and what if a cop lives out there somewhere?

---

Looked at my trims table tonight and saw there were big minus trims in the 4250 and 4500 15% cells. Apparently I just picked those up riding normally. I accepted and did a few runs focussing only on 3000-5000rpm 15% using 3rd and fourth gears, got a couple more minus trims and finally ZEROED! Zero trims in the next two runs. AFR looks to be 13ish throughout the 15% range. Can't figure that out. Something about 5th gear that 4250 and 5000 rpm doesn't like?

---

Can't figure that out. Something about 5th gear that 4250 and 5000 rpm doesn't like?

Is it doing this only in5th? What about 4th or 6th.
How are you doing the runs? Are you running it slowly cell by cell or snapping throttle to 15% and holding it there until rpm stop climbing or as high as you can go on your roads? Are all the other columns zero AFR, trims and fuel?
We're all your runs done at the same time on the same day? did you start from a zero base or did you have trims in there already?

---

Is it doing this only in5th? What about 4th or 6th.

I completed the 15% runs in 4th and it did not happen. Got trims, accepted, no more trims after that in 4th. I believe I tested in 5th and got 4 at at 4500 again. Did not accept.

6th would be too fast, I think. If it's not absolutely necessary, I'm avoiding 6th until the very last runs where I'll be hitting the rev limiter in lower gears.

How are you doing the runs? Are you running it slowly cell by cell or snapping throttle to 15% and holding it there until rpm stop climbing or as high as you can go on your roads? Are all the other columns zero AFR, trims and fuel?

I watch cell tracer to open throttle right to the column I am tuning. If all goes well and I have enough road ahead, I open to max TP for that collumn (19% for the 15% TP column). I always , hold the throttle steady no matter what TP I am at then let go as soon as i hit the rpm I need and decl to a stop...sometimes need brakes. I never back off the throttle at all just try to hold it steady and I believe I am.

I am tuning 17500 rpm to 4000 rpm in 1st gear. Same technique as above but no need to worry about max TP--just as long as cell tracer is in the column. I then do some runs from 3000 to max rpm/TP. 3000-4000 is a repeat but that way I am sure I am not missing any cells. In the case of the 42500 and 4500 cells at 15% TP, I focussed just on those cells in my last few ryns starting at 3000 and revving to 5000. No need to do any more cells as long as i hit the ones that need work.

Are all the other columns zero AFR, trims and fuel?

0 AFR in all other columns. No trims for other columns and fuel table does not change except for the cpllumn I have target AFR for.

Sound good? seems to be working.

I did the 20% collumn this AM. VERY EASY, no hangups. 1750-4000 in first gear then 3000 to 6500 in 5th. All good after just one run, I was able to open to 39% and hold toward the end of the run but did not hazard peak rpm. I will go back and do some runs starting at 5000rpm and rev it out if speed is not too high in 5th gear. I might hit the rev limiter though so then I will need to start doing 6th gear runs.

It seems much easier doing runs at large throttle. You run through the rpm much quicker and seems to require less road.

We're all your runs done at the same time on the same day?

No way. Only way I could do that would be on a LSR track. Varying air temps, humidity. I have to go to different roads to avoid alarming locals. Also have to work LOL. When I get this down, I will refine the whole thing under more optimum conditions.

did you start from a zero base or did you have trims in there already?

Had Romans map in. Far as I can tell, was quite close to what I need. I only have gotten a couple numbers close to 20 and those went way down on the second run.

---

What I did find is at lower gears it might not stay in a cell long enough to get a reading thus it shows you zero trims. When you go to a higher gear it takes longer to go through the rpm range, thus staying in a cell longer and now it shows you trims. If in doubt as you have done don't accept trims and check it again. If it still gives you the same trims then my assumption is that's what fueling it wants.

---

I have checked the lower rpm tuned in 1st gear with 5th gear and seems pretty much on. I don't bother over a few ones or maybe a couple twos. The rpm does rise awfully quick in first gear but the very lowest, 1200~3000, probably is not all that much faster than fifth gear 3000rpm to 50000rpm. I only keep the very low rpm adjustments that were done in first. Any trims from first gear runs above 3000 rpm get readjusted with the fifth gear runs and it seems like those are usually 1s and 2s and a lot of 0s. I was less careful about perfect tuning when I first started than I am now. I do plan to go over it all and get it as perfect as possible.

---

I am very intrigued with my new toy but it is starting to make my riding less enjoyable. I am buying a tank of gas /day and going out the speed stretches I have found riding miles and waiting for the moment when i think I am alone. I'm trying to avoid being seen by other motorists and most definitely, police. I am anxious about the cars that are a half mile away because they might be a cop. I've seen at least 4 deer. Two today. The main focus is running the bike so it's in the range to hit the cells I'm tuning and I'm not riding for the fun of riding anymore. I did about 130 today and I still do not know if I hit peak rpm for 39% throttle. Maybe I should just ride and carry the LCD so that when I see an opportunity, I can do a tuning run. Trims will stay as long as I keep out of the higher throttle positions and I can accept them when I get home.

---

. I'm trying to avoid being seen by other motorists and most definitely, police. I am anxious about the cars that are a half mile away because they might be a cop. I've seen at least 4 deer. Two today. The main focus is running the bike so it's in the range to hit the cells

theres these places called drag strips . cost about $20.00 and don't have to worry about none of the above

---

Looks like the closest one is in Kaukauna, WI. I'll look pretty silly doing a drag run at 39% throttle. + I'm getting close to drag strip top speed now and I'm only halfway done with the map.

Think i better plan on some kind of safer way to go over a hundred for 7-8 seconds. Tonight I was approaching a rise in the road and I wasn't 100% positive the road stayed straight on the other side. I kept on the throttle to 39% and took the hill. The road stayed straight after all. I was pretty sure it would but you kinda want to be positive at that speed. Between the tachometer and the TP, I had no time to look at the speedo but the tach was in the 8000s. Also the peak rpm I saw earlier today. Far as I can tell, that's where it ends for the 20% column. I'm working out the 20% column until I have 0, 1 and 2s and then I have to come up with some other plan. This is crazy.

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/7/2016 @ 6:38 PM *

---

I completed the 15% runs in 4th and it did not happen. Got trims, accepted, no more trims after that in 4th. I believe I tested in 5th and got 4 at at 4500 again.

I went out riding yesterday and took note of that specific area on my bike. Gen2 2014 model, and I was surprised to see on my AFR gauge that if i roll on slowly in that same area i get a leaner number. If i roll off the throttle and open it again then its back to my target AfR. I did this a few times to make sure its not just my imagination. Could it just be coincidence? I will keep an eye on it.

I am very intrigued with my new toy but it is starting to make my riding less enjoyable

persevere, it will pay off in the long run. Once its all done and you start enjoying the benefits it will all be forgotten. The fact that you are doing little bit by little bit can make it frustrating.
I'm lucky I have a road close to my house where I can do it all in one morning with relatively little traffic. However its still a little "hairy" riding down at 300kmh to do top end on any public road especially when you have to do it three or four times in a row straight after each other. You need a fair amount of road for the 80 and 100% columns.

Maybe someone can add in here on a better/quicker method. My thinking If you did 80 and 100% columns on a dyno and then cleaned it up on the road. Haven't tried it yet, but my guess is that it will be much quicker cleaning up the affects of ram air on the road than starting from scratch. Also for normal road riding I'm not that perturbed if I have ones and twos in the upper rpm range of 80-100% in 6th gear. Its not that often that you are normally riding in that range and autotune will keep that area tuned whilst you are riding.

theres these places called drag strips . cost about $20.00 and don't have to worry about none of the above

This sounds like a good plan, if they allow you to use the strip when its not a drag day.

---

I went out riding yesterday and took note of that specific area on my bike. Gen2 2014 model, and I was surprised to see on my AFR gauge that if i roll on slowly in that same area i get a leaner number. If i roll off the throttle and open it again then its back to my target AfR. I did this a few times to make sure its not just my imagination. Could it just be coincidence? I will keep an eye on it.

I was only able to do two runs in the 20% column yesterday but it caught my attention that I got 4 at the 4000rpm cell both times. The max/min trim is set to 20% so I'm hoping it's just coincidence. It would not be the end of the world. Those cells could be datalogged and set manually.

persevere, it will pay off in the long run. Once its all done and you start enjoying the benefits it will all be forgotten. The fact that you are doing little bit by little bit can make it frustrating.

LOL I will have to go on a journey in search of a road like yours. I think my luck is running thin doing it where I'm at. Just signed a work document indicating I'm a good boy.

"Have you accepted responsibility in a civil infraction (excluding speeding tickets) or have been convicted of (or pled no contest to) a misdemeanor or felony?
Yes No

I guess if they just call 130 mph+ a speeding ticket, I'd be OK. Don't want to push my luck too far.

Maybe someone can add in here on a better/quicker method. My thinking If you did 80 and 100% columns on a dyno and then cleaned it up on the road. Haven't tried it yet, but my guess is that it will be much quicker cleaning up the affects of ram air on the road than starting from scratch. Also for normal road riding I'm not that perturbed if I have ones and twos in the upper rpm range of 80-100% in 6th gear. Its not that often that you are normally riding in that range and autotune will keep that area tuned whilst you are riding.

From what I have seen tuning each column, the map is dead on in the higher rpm. Below 6000rpm I'm not even getting many trims over 2. It seems like the smaller TPs and lower RPMs need greater adjustments than larger TP and higher RPM. The biggest numbers I got were in my fuel dump zone and I believe that was at low rpm. That's the only time i saw anything like a 17.

I did get a trim of 1 at 12000 rpm on the last run. No idea how that happened since the bike only went to 8k rpm.

This sounds like a good plan, if they allow you to use the strip when its not a drag day.

Couldn't hurt to ask. I wonder how much track would be left by the time I got the bike in 5th gear at low rpm though? I think LSR might be a better option to get 7-8 runs in.

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/8/2016 @ 8:39 AM *

---

"Have you accepted responsibility in a civil infraction (excluding speeding tickets) or have been convicted of (or pled no contest to) a misdemeanor or felony?
Yes No
I guess if they just call 130 mph+ a speeding ticket, I'd be OK. Don't want to push my luck too far.

Had some minor tickets and I have spent a Sunday in a jail cell and a hefty fine given by the court on the Monday morning. The charge is not speeding but rather reckless and negligent driving. Otherwise we generally stick to the roads that are less frequented by our traffic police. These are normally back roads which are a lot more fun than highways. We are fortunate that we don't have a point system here yet. So it's no reflection on your license which doesn't affect insurance or anything else related. Thank the Lord otherwise I would have lost my license.

---

. I'll look pretty silly doing a drag run at 39% throttle. + I'm getting close to drag strip top speed now and I'm only halfway done with the map.

its call test and tune for a reason.
your not trying to tell me that at 39% throttle your bike can run 150+ mph .

---

^^No but I looked at the speedo a couple seconds after letting the throttle go and it was still past a hundred so I'm guessing 120 at least. 8000 rpm, 5th gear, that's getting close to the tippy top. The issue is not so much the speed but the amount of time and distance required to reach peak rpm for given throttle position. I'm not sure a quarter mile from a dead stop is quite enough. Would be worth a try though. This might start to get easier because I will (would) be able to use 40-59% throttle for the next column.

My job is in education, K-high school. If I get busted for reckless driving it would look very bad, best case scenario. Worst case, I have teaching license revoked or suspended or something like that and that question always is asked on employment forms (+ they do background check).

When i got my big ticket the offense was called "35+ miles per hour over the speed limit." It was a speeding offense but a 6 point violation like DUI and a $700 fine. Was the officer's choice to not call it reckless driving. No jail, no bike impoundment but a 15 day license suspension which I had to violate to get to school. IDK why my insurance didn't go up. Got lucky or else someone felt sorry for me and decided not to report it to my insurance.

Did i learn my lesson? Well sorta. I am very cautious about doing over a hundred now. I'll do it on the back roads to but never a major highway. My preference would be the major highways because they are huge, have lareg run off areas, probably less wildlife and usually well maintained. Perfect for ultra high speed...but that's where you see all the police too.

---